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Chef Saran's 'American Masala' tickles the palate
Sunday, 01.06.2008, 11:05pm (GMT-7)

NEW YORK: Suvir Saran is on a roll. Coming soon after his prodigal come back when he re-opened Devi, the popular upscale Manhattan restaurant along with partner/chef Hemant Mathur, the celebrated chef has come out with his new cookbook, American Masala.

More than a review of the book, this testimonial from Mark Bittman, author of How to Cook Everything and The Best Recipes in the World, says it best: "I have cooked Suvir's recipes probably fifty times, never without delightful, fresh, inspiring results," Bittman says.

"When it comes to contemporary and traditional food, I trust him implicitly. American Masala is a gem." "Suvir Saran's American Masala is an exhilarating culinary journey," says Sheila Lukins, co-author of the Silver Plate Cookbook.

"From Cardamom Roasted Cauliflower to sumptuous Crab and Salmon Cakes with a Spicy Cilantro Aioli, Suvir's love affair with amazing flavors is evident in every recipe. My own personal favorites will always be his Spiced Pear and Better-than-Ketchup Tomato Chutneys, but I adore his pickles, too!" Masala is a catchall phrase that means spice mixture -- not just the actual seasonings -- but also the spice that enlivens our lives.

This is the concept that Suvir Saran explores in his new cookbook, American Masala, a delicious blend of Indian and American cooking that combines the best the two have to offer, yielding dishes that are both and new.

As a native of Delhi who has lived in America for almost 15 years, Saran has come to love classic American dishes like cornbread, brownies, and fried chicken. At the same time, he still loves the dishes and cooking techniques he learned in India, which include tricks like toasting herbs and spices to develop their flavors or finishing a dish with an infusion of flavored oil to add a note of brightness.

In American Masala, Saran delivers recipes utilizing Indian spices that layer flavors in simple but profound ways. For example, he adds a bit of cayenne to flattened cutlets before dipping them in highly seasoned breadcrumbs for a completely addictive new take on chicken parmesan dubbed parmesan-spiced chicken cutlets, or using three kinds of lentils in the lentil and vegetable stew for a more complex flavor and texture.

Some recipes in American Masala begin with Indian dishes which have been adapted to American ingredients, while others live someplace in between. Whether inspired by one or the other culture, all of the recipes are easy, beautiful, and taste amazing.

From snacks and starters to the evening meal, the Indian influence brightens the flavors in dishes like sweet pepper, onion and chèvre bruschetta, tandoori chicken with ginger and spices, and tamarind-glazed meat loaf.

American Masala isn't about traditional Indian food -- it's about adding new flavors to the great American melting pot, using spices to liven up the old standbys, and enjoying dishes that are as exciting and comforting as mother's cooking. Saran has been widely acclaimed for his earlier book, Indian Home Cooking:

A Fresh Introduction to Indian Food, with More Than 150 Recipes (Clarkson Potter/Publishers). Saran established new standards for Indian food in America when he teamed up with tandoor master Hemant Mathur in 2004 to create the authentic flavors of Indian home cooking at Dévi restaurant in New York, for which they earned a Michelin one-star rating, making Devi the only Indian restaurant anywhere to earn the Michelin star.

Devi shut shop in August last year following a labor lawsuit. However, chefs Saran and Mathur, now owners of Devi, re-opened the restaurant in October 2007, much to the delight of Devi regulars.

Saran's new book has been featured on several lists of "best cookbooks of 2007", including The New York Times, New York Daily News, San Diego Union-Tribune, Epicurious.com, Edge Weekly, Charlotte Observer, Martha Stewart Living Radio, Miami Herald, Tampa Tribune and Austin Statesman-Chronicle.

India Post News Service