Healing Village

Kairali devoted to tenets of Ayurveda

One rainy June afternoon. On way to Palakkad, the bustling city that takes its name from Pala (an indigenous tree) and kadu (forest). A scrap of land that puffs about the world’s largest mountain pass. Kerala’s seventh most populous city that was once called Palakkattussery. Where Tipu Sultan lorded over a fort. Where the palm fronds sway gleefully in the rains. And Malampuzha Reservoir tames the rivers. Palakkad, a city which is called the gateway to God’s own country.

That rainy June afternoon, however, the city was not my destination. From the Coimbatore airport I was heading south-west to the much-awarded Kairali, the Ayurvedic Healing Village in Palakkad. On way, ribbons of mist were hanging languorously on dark mountains, clouds were rumbling and puddles were unforgiving.

Soon, a mighty iron gate creaked open, a security guard in blue saluted, the paved pathway curved sharply and the car screeched into the 60-acre healing village. A woman in white hastened out of the lobby with brass lamps and the general manager gifted a traditional neriyathu (white scarf with golden border). That’s how an authentic Ayurvedic experience begins in the 16-year old healing village run by KV Ramesh and Geeta Ramesh.

Kairali is not a ritzy spa. Does not pretend to be one. It is a healing village which adheres to the tenets of Ayurveda. To the last A. Ayurveda authentic to the last C. So true to Ayurveda that it all begins with your dwelling. The 27 nakshtras of Vedic astrology. Of the 30 villas, 27 are named after the nakshtras and every guest is matched with the room of his nakshtra. Sages believe that a house that matches a person’s nakshtra is the most propitious for him. At Kairali, each room is styled accordingly and also follows Vaastu Shastra and Feng Shui.

A day in Kairali begins at the crack of dawn. A yoga session under the guidance of a guru. Then a healthy breakfast waits at the Canteen (they refrain from calling it a restaurant) that begins with lukewarm water infused with the goodness of njerinjil and pathimugam (both medicinal plants). Food is strictly vegetarian. No alcohol. No smoking. Not even pop or soda. No stale food. No refrigerated food. Not even a menu from where you pick and choose.

You eat what the chefs rustle fresh in the kitchen. On the plate there could be raagi dosa, wheat payasam with jaggery, urad dal jalebi dipped in honey syrup, oat/vegetable soup, steamed puttu (rice powder + grated coconut) – simple, nutritious dishes. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at fixed hours. Bad meal timings are a big no-no.

The goodness of Kairali lies in its Ayurvedic Hospital where the doctors decipher your ailments and prescribe the treatment and diet accordingly. Treatment programs often range between 7, 14 and 21 days, though it could be longer for chronic ailments. The massages are specific to the ailment and are combined with yoga, meditation and Ayurvedic diet. Kairali offers more than 100 massages including Panchakarma, Shirodhara, Abhyangam, Pizhichil, Khadikizhi.

Completing the Kairali experience, there’s a coconut grove, a lotus pond, a gurgling creek, an herbal garden, a swimming pool and even hammocks to curl up and forget the woes of the world. Everyone leaves Kairali, the Ayurvedic Healing Village, feeling healed. Mind, body and soul-healed.

Preeti Verma Lal